12. Day Eight

Today's ports of call:

Departed Berlevag  22.00 arrive Mehamn 00.45

Depart Mehamn  01.00, arrive Kjollefjord 02.45

Depart Kjollefjord 03.00, arrive Honningsvag 05.30

Depart Honningsvag 05.45, arrive Havoysund 07.45

Depart Havoysund 08.00, arrive Hammerfest 10.45

Depart Hammerfest 12.45, arrive Oksfjord 15.30

Depart Oksfjord 15.45, arrive  Skjervoy 19.45

Depart Skjervoy 20.15, arrive Tromso 23.45

Weather at 11.00am, broken clouds which are clearing, calm wind, temperature -4C

Early yesterday evening the northern lights put in another appearance although nothing like as spectacular as the previous sightings. Long pale bands of milky white stretched across the sky and they remained fairly static. We just count ourselves fortunate to have seen them as there were many heavy snow showers around.

Today's first daylight port was Havoysund and just outside the port gate a snowplough was busy clearing the overnight accumulation. 

During the course of the northbound service, the ship kept exactly to schedule timewise, but for some reason we seem to be running a good half hour late on the return. We've noticed that there appears to be a problem with the bow thruster at a couple of ports and we are speculating as to whether or not this is the cause.

Thus we were late arriving into Hammerfest and our two hour stop was reduced to an hour and a quarter. However this still gave us ample time to look in the local museum and become fully paid up members of the Royal & Ancient Polar Bear Society (look it up on Google), have a walk up to the modern and architecturally interesting church, and to take a few pictures of around the town. Hammerfest advertises itself as the world's most northerly town, but again, it all depends on your definition of the word.

We also had the opportunity to pass the M/S Trollfjord which was heading northbound which resulted in much whistle blowing by both ships.

The sail down the Vargsund and into the head of the Alta fjord to our next stop, the port of Oksfjord was stunning. Although it was only mid afternoon, the clouds had cleared and the sun was setting casting a warm (in name only) pink glow on the snow capped mountains which rose several hundred metres on either side of us. There is no vegetation in this part of the Arctic and so the white snow contrasts with the black rock of the jagged arêtes and ice filled colls. It was time to reflect as the magnificent scenery slid past the panoramic windows...the world's most beautiful voyage?...well, it would take something special to trump the current view. 

And early in the evening....another sighting of the northern lights and we even managed to take a few poor quality pictures this time. By all accounts we have been very fortunate on this trip to have seen the aurora so frequently and with great intensity.