10. Day Six

Today's ports of call:

Departed Skjervoy 22.45 arrive Oksfjord 02.00

Depart Oksfjord 02.15, arrive Hammerfest 05.15

Depart Hammerfest  06.00, arrive Havoysund 08.45

Depart Havoysund  09.15, arrive Honningsvag 11.15

Depart Honningsvag 14.45, arrive Kjollefjord 17.00

Depart Kjollefjord 17.15, arrive Mehamn 19.00

Depart Mehamn 19.15, arrive  Berlevag 22.00

Depart Berlevag 22.15

Weather at 11.00am, clear skies with scattered clouds which are thickening, calm wind, temperature -4C

The ship arrived in Havoysund as we were having breakfast. Like many of these small ports high above the Arctic Circle it's difficult to understand how and why a settlement has grown up in the middle of nowhere, when the only scenery is snow, rock and ice, and there is no sign of greenery. Somehow, I can't imagine that centuries ago some Viking explorer pulled into a coastal inlet in his longboat and said "Right lads, let's set up shop here, it's got nothing at all going for it, we can't grow anything, there are no trees so we've nothing to burn to keep warm, but it is a rather pretty view."

The next stop was the major (and I use that word loosely) port of Honningsvag. On the way we spotted the first marine life of the voyage thus far, a small pod of porpoises. 

Upon arrival we put on our crampons (absolutely essential with all the snow and ice and they worked brilliantly), and had a wander around. Given that both the souvenir shop and the ice bar were closed, there wasn't too much else to do, but the clarity of the air and the scenery made for some fabulous photo opportunities. Having said that, the sun sets at around 2.30 pm so we do lose the light early.

Sailing onwards we were soon passing around the northernmost part of the voyage. By now it was very dark, there were snow flurries in the air and both the wind and seas were rising. I was reminded of the convoys which passed this way on their way to Murmansk during WW2...we are safe and warm on board the Richard With, but for those sailors it must have been a godforsaken journey.